LA COLLECTIVE » Beyond Time: A Conversation with MB & F's Charris Yadigaroglou 超越時間：與MB & F 的Charris Yadigaroglou對談

在日內瓦風和日麗的早上，我們與MB & F的市場傳播主管Charris Yadigaroglou進行了對談。MB & F 植根瑞士、一個不斷重新定義鐘錶製造界限的品牌。我們的對話深入探討了 MB & F獨特的製錶哲學，以及圍繞其開創性作品所形成的「tribe」。

Horological Concept Laboratory：解放的哲學

甫踏進M.A.D Gallery，現場除了滿佈極具特色的藝術品外，同樣充斥著來自世界各地的腕錶愛好者，看錶的看錶，看藝術品的看藝術品，輕聲交談的交談。LA Collective的團隊接著被領到會議室，與風度翩翩的Charris坐下來對談。

MB&F自豪地稱自己為「horological concept laboratory」。Charris解釋說，這項哲學植根於創始人Maximilian Büsser的願景，旨在將鐘錶製造從傳統束縛中解放出來。Charris闡明：「如果機械鐘錶製造一種藝術形式，那麼我們為何不能探索其他藝術形式？」他強調了MB & F如何擺脫傳統圓形腕錶，轉而擁抱當代、雕塑般的外型。

這種解放延伸至他們的創作過程，其中「想法先行」為MB & F 的重要理念。與業界許多優先考慮技術層面的品牌不同，MB & F始於一個強大、純粹的創意概念，而技術層面則服務於將這一願景付諸實現。 Charris熱熾地分享道：「我們真正希望確保，無論是太空船、飛機還是汽車啟發的腕錶，這個想法都能定義整個專案，就像藝術源於一個想法，然後我們當然會努力以技術層面介入。」

「朋友」的力量：透明與共享價值觀

MB & F中的「& Friends」不僅僅是一個引人注目的附加詞；它是其品牌身份的基石。Charris分享了一個引人入勝的類比，將他們的透明合作比作電影的片尾字幕，認可所有為最終傑作做出貢獻的人，這種個人化的論述揭示了MB & F 對其合作夥伴的深切尊重。

除了技術專長，這些「朋友」的選擇深植於共同的價值觀。Charris指出：「如果他們不與我們分享相同的價值觀，那麼我們寧願不與他們合作。」這強調了和諧且value-driven的生態系統的重要性，這種合作精神培養了一個強大的社群。

Kinetic Sculptures：平衡創意與功能性

MB & F的作品常被描述為「Kinetic Sculpture for the Wrist」。Charris解釋說，挑戰在於如何在無盡的創意與鐘錶的功能需求之間取得平衡。兩種主要限制塑造了他們的腕錶設計：人體工學和防水性。

儘管其設計往往非傳統且體積龐大，MB & F的工程師們仍致力於確保腕錶的舒適性。 Charris講述了一個常見的反應：「有時人們看到我們那些非常不尋常、相當龐大的腕錶時會感到驚訝。他們戴上腕間後會說：『啊，實際上，它很舒適。我可以戴這個。』」這個軼事生動地說明了他們大膽設計的可戴性。防水性，一個看似平凡的技術細節，在複雜的三維錶殼中卻成為一個顯著的難題。Charris提到了HM11，它需要19個墊圈才能達到最低30米的防水性能，這證明了他們對形式和功能的雙重投入。

這種對機械藝術的追求超越了腕錶。MB & F曾與Reuge合作創造音樂盒，並與L'Epée 1839合作製造時鐘，這一切都源於對機械的熱愛。這些合作提供了更大的創作自由，讓他們能夠探索多樣化的機械藝術形式。

尊崇傳統，顛覆預期
談及傳統，MB & F走在一條微妙的界線上。Charris解釋說，雖然其作品的視覺呈現通常是當代的，並受到童年夢想或建築的啟發，但其內部的「成分」仍根植於傳統機械鐘錶製造。他比喻道：「這有點像一輛老式蒸汽火車頭……我們將它解構，拆開，然後以不同的形式重新組裝。但它仍然是一輛蒸汽火車。」這完美地捕捉了他們重新詮釋經典鐘錶的方法，並與MB & F網站的標語「一個有創意的成年人，都是倖存下來的孩子 (A creative adult is a child who survive)」相互呼應。

Tribe：自信收藏家的社群
MB & F的收藏家們被親切地稱為「 Tribe」。這個社群對品牌的存續至關重要。他提到創始人Max Büsser每天都會強調這種情感：「我們的一切都歸功於 Tribe……我們的一切都歸功於我們的客戶」這種對品牌內部文化的個人洞察，突顯了他們對收藏家堅定不移的承諾。

然而，這種尊重並不意味著對創意過程的直接影響。MB & F 認為，真正的藝術表達必須源於創作者，不受外部需求的影響。Charris指出：「如果你過於聽從人們想要什麼，那份創意可能會變得有些稀釋。」

MB & F的收藏家通常是白手起家的個體，是那些有信心擁抱非傳統品味的企業家。他們不受大眾意見的左右，欣賞 MB & F 獨特的藝術主張。正如Charris觀察到的，許多收藏家從更傳統的品牌轉向 MB & F這樣的獨立品牌，尋求一些「不尋常、更出乎意料」的東西。

M.A.D. Editions：擴展精神
M.A.D. Editions現象成功地將MB&F的精神介紹給了更廣泛的受眾。儘管價格差異顯著——MB&F腕錶平均為15萬瑞士法郎，而M.A.D. Edition則不到3千瑞士法郎——這兩個品牌卻因共同的價值觀而團結：機械藝術、透明度和友誼。

Charris解釋說，MB&F的創立基於這些普世價值，而非單一產品。這種基礎方法使得M.A.D. Editions得以自然擴展，提供了像受DJ唱盤啟發的MAD 2這樣易於接觸的作品。他強調了一個「非常有趣的現象」，即99%的新 MB & F 擁有者會立即訂購M.A.D. Edition，這展示了他們社群內部的深厚連結和忠誠度。這個軼事有力地說明了這兩個截然不同卻精神契合的實體之間的無縫整合。

The Ultimate Legacy: HM4
當被問及為time capsule選擇一件MB & F腕錶作品時，Charris選擇了Horological Machine 4 (HM4)。HM4於2010年發布，是一個關鍵性的作品，它「解放」了MB & F，證明了他們最為大膽的設計也能引起收藏家的共鳴。他回憶道：「我們曾對HM4感到憂慮，因為我們在HM4上確實有點瘋狂……但相反地，它卻取得了巨大的成功。」

HM4以其獨特的噴射引擎啟發設計和垂直時間顯示，不僅鞏固了MB & F的創作自由，也影響了更廣泛的鐘錶界，鼓勵其他品牌擁抱創新。它代表了一個獨立製錶時代的里程碑，創意和藝術表達在其中佔據了中心地位。

熱情與友誼鑄就的傳承
我們與Charris Yadigaroglou的對談不僅僅是一次採訪；它是一次對 MB & F核心的深入一瞥。它揭示了一個品牌不僅建立在機械精湛技藝之上，更建立在對藝術自由、真誠合作以及人際連結力量的深刻信念之上。Charris的見解生動地描繪了一個由熱情驅動、勇於挑戰傳統、並深切致力於與其社群分享願景的團隊。

MB & F透過其大膽的創作以及對「Friends」和「Tribe」堅定不移的承諾，不僅僅是創造腕錶；它是在鑄就傳承。它邀請我們所有人超越錶盤，欣賞Kinetic Art，並加入一場時間不僅被測量，更被熱情策劃的旅程。

【Once Upon a Watch】Beyond Time: A Conversation with MB & F's Charris Yadigaroglou

At LA Collective, we believe time is curated, not just measured. We champion artistry, horology, and a shared passion for the extraordinary. It was with this spirit that we sat down with Charris Yadigaroglou, Head of Marketing Communications at MB & F, a brand that has consistently redefined the boundaries of watchmaking. Our conversation delved into MB & F's unique philosophy, their approach to creativity, and the vibrant community that surrounds their groundbreaking creations.

The Horological Concept Laboratory: A Philosophy of Liberation

MB & F proudly calls itself a "horological concept laboratory." Charris explained that this philosophy, rooted in the vision of founder Maximilian Büsser, is about liberating watchmaking from conventional constraints. "If mechanical watchmaking is an art form, then why can we not explore other forms of art?" Charris articulated, highlighting MB & F's departure from traditional round watches to embrace contemporary, sculptural forms.

This liberation extends to their creative process, where the "idea comes first." Unlike many in the industry who prioritize engineering, MB & F begins with a strong, pure creative concept, with engineering serving to bring that vision to life. Charris passionately conveyed, "We really want to make sure that whether it's a spaceship or an airplane or a car-inspired watch, that idea defines the project, just like art comes from an idea, and then we try to put in beautiful engineering, of course."

The Power of "Friends": Transparency and Shared Values

The "& Friends" in MB & F is not merely a catchy addition; it's a cornerstone of their identity. Charris shared a compelling analogy, comparing their transparent collaboration to the credit roll of a film, recognizing everyone who contributes to the final masterpiece. This personal touch reveals the deep respect MB & F holds for its partners.

Beyond technical expertise, the selection of these "friends" is deeply rooted in shared human values. "If they don't share the same values as us, then we prefer not to work with them," Charris stated, underscoring the importance of a harmonious and value-driven ecosystem. This collaborative spirit has fostered a powerful community, extending beyond suppliers to collectors and artists alike.

Kinetic Sculptures: Balancing Creativity and Functionality

MB & F's creations are often described as "kinetic sculptures for the wrist." The challenge, as Charris explained, lies in balancing radical creativity with the functional demands of horology. Two primary constraints shape their wristwatch designs: ergonomics and water resistance.

Despite their often unconventional and large forms, MB & F engineers their watches for comfort. Charris recounted a common reaction: "Sometimes people are surprised when they see one of our very unusual, rather large watches. They put it on their wrist like, ah, actually, it works. I could wear this." This anecdote brings to life the wearability of their audacious designs. Water resistance, a seemingly mundane technicality, becomes a significant hurdle with complex, three-dimensional cases. Charris cited the HM11, which required 19 gaskets to achieve the minimum 30-meter water resistance, a testament to their dedication to both form and function.

This pursuit of mechanical art extends beyond wristwatches. MB & F has co-created music boxes with Reuge and clocks with L'Epée 1839, driven by a love for mechanics in general. These collaborations offer even greater creative freedom, allowing them to explore diverse forms of mechanical artistry.

Honoring Tradition, Interrupting Expectation

When it comes to tradition, MB & F walks a fine line. Charris explained that while the visual aspect of their creations is often contemporary and inspired by childhood dreams or architecture, the "ingredients" within remain rooted in traditional mechanical watchmaking. "It's a bit like an old steam engine locomotive... we deconstruct it, we take it apart, and we put it together in a different form. But it's still a steam engine," he analogized, perfectly capturing their approach to reinterpreting classic horology, and rhyme with the slogan of MB & F website “An creative adult is a child who survived”.

The Tribe: A Community of Confident Collectors

MB & F's collectors are affectionately known as "The Tribe." This community is paramount to the brand's existence. "We owe everything to the tribe... we owe everything to our clients, to our tribe," a sentiment he noted Max Büsser reinforces daily. This personal insight into the brand's internal culture highlights their unwavering commitment to their collectors

However, this respect does not translate into direct influence over the creative process. MB & F believes that true artistic expression must come from the creator, uninfluenced by external demands. "If you start listening too much to what people want, that creativity will probably become a bit diluted," Charris noted, distinguishing their niche, artistic approach from volume brands.

MB & F collectors are often self-made individuals, entrepreneurs with the confidence to embrace unconventional tastes. They are not swayed by popular opinion and appreciate the unique artistic proposition of MB & F. As Charris observed, many collectors transition from more traditional brands to independent ones like MB & F, seeking something "unusual, a bit more unexpected".

M.A.D. Editions: Expanding the Spirit

The M.A.D. Editions phenomenon has successfully introduced the MB & F spirit to a wider audience. Despite a significant price difference—an MB & F watch averages 150,000 Swiss francs, while a M.A.D. Edition is under 3,000 Swiss francs—the two brands are united by shared values: mechanical art, transparency, and friendship.

Charris explained that MB & F was founded on these universal values, rather than a single product. This foundational approach allowed for the natural expansion into M.A.D. Editions, which offers accessible pieces like the MAD 2, inspired by DJ turntables. He highlighted a "very funny phenomenon" where 99% of new MB & F owners immediately order a M.A.D. Edition, showcasing the deep connection and loyalty within their community. This anecdote powerfully illustrates the seamless integration of these two distinct yet spiritually aligned entities.

The Ultimate Legacy: HM4

When asked to choose one MB & F creation for a time capsule, Charris selected the Horological Machine 4 (HM4). Released in 2010, the HM4 was a pivotal piece that "liberated" MB & F, proving that their most audacious designs could resonate with collectors. "We were scared of HM4 because we really went a bit crazy on HM4... And on the contrary, it was a huge success," he recalled.

HM4, with its distinctive jet-engine inspired design and vertical time display, not only solidified MB & F's creative freedom but also influenced the broader watchmaking landscape, encouraging other brands to embrace innovation. It stands as a testament to an era of independent watchmaking where creativity and artistic expression took center stage.

A Legacy Forged in Passion and Friendship

Our conversation with Charris Yadigaroglou was more than an interview; it was an intimate glimpse into the heart of MB & F. It revealed a brand built not just on mechanical mastery, but on a profound belief in artistic freedom, genuine collaboration, and the power of human connection. Charris's insights painted a vivid picture of a team driven by passion, unafraid to challenge conventions, and deeply committed to a community that shares their vision.

MB & F, through its audacious creations and unwavering commitment to its "Friends" and "Tribe," doesn't just create watches; it crafts legacies. It invites us all to look beyond the dial, to appreciate the kinetic art, and to join a journey where time is not merely measured, but passionately curated.

Beyond Time: A Conversation with MB & F's Charris Yadigaroglou 超越時間：與MB & F 的Charris Yadigaroglou對談

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